Eye Skin Anti Aging Cosmetic Peptides Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 Powder
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Product Overview
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 (INCI name), also known as Eyeseryl®, Depuffin™, or Eye Revive Tetrapeptide, is a synthetic tetrapeptide specifically designed to target periorbital skin concerns. It is a biomimetic peptide composed of four amino acids: β-alanine, histidine, serine, and histidine, with an acetyl group at the N-terminus. Its full chemical name is N-Acetyl-β-alanyl-L-histidyl-L-seryl-L-histidine.
The compound was developed based on the endogenous peptide mechanism that regulates water balance and vascular permeability in the human body. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 acts as an angiotensin-converting enzyme 1 (ACE-1) inhibitor, mimicking the action of certain pharmaceutical agents but in a milder, skin-friendly manner suitable for topical cosmetic use.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is widely recognized in the cosmetic industry as the gold standard peptide ingredient for eye contour care. Its primary benefits include reducing under-eye puffiness (edema), diminishing the appearance of dark circles, improving skin elasticity, and preventing collagen glycation.
Chemical & Physical Specifications
Parameter | Specification |
|---|---|
INCI Name | Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 |
CAS No. | 820959-17-9 |
EINECS/ELINCS No. | Not assigned |
MDL No. | MFCD30179524 |
Molecular Formula | C₂₀H₂₈N₈O₇ |
Molecular Weight | 492.48 – 492.5 g/mol |
Exact Mass | 492.208 g/mol |
Amino Acid Sequence | Ac-β-Ala-His-Ser-His-OH |
Three-letter Sequence | Ac-β-Ala-His-Ser-His-OH |
Shortened Sequence | Ac-β-{Ala}-HSH |
IUPAC Name | (2S)-2-[[(2S)-2-[[(2S)-2-(3-acetamidopropanoylamino)-3-(1H-imidazol-5-yl)propanoyl]amino]-3-hydroxypropanoyl]amino]-3-(1H-imidazol-5-yl)propanoic acid |
InChI Key | ROTFCACGLKOUGI-JYJNAYRXSA-N |
Canonical SMILES | CC(=O)NCCC(=O)NC(CC1=CN=CN1)C(=O)NC(CO)C(=O)NC(CC2=CN=CN2)C(=O)O |
Appearance | White to off-white crystalline powder |
Purity (HPLC) | ≥ 95.0% – 98.0% (cosmetic grade ≥ 98.0% typical) |
Peptide Content | ≥ 80.0% |
Water Content (K.F.) | ≤ 8.0% – 10.0% |
Acetate Content | ≤ 12.0% – 15.0% |
TFA Content | ≤ 1.0% |
pH (1% aqueous solution) | 5.0 – 7.0 |
Endotoxin | ≤ 50 EU/mg |
Amino Acid Composition | Within ±10% of theoretical |
Mass Balance | 95.0 – 105.0% |
Density | 1.443 g/cm³ |
Boiling Point | 1237.3 ± 65.0 °C (predicted) |
Refractive Index | 1.61 |
Solubility | Highly soluble in water (>5 mg/mL H₂O); soluble in PBS (pH 7.2: 10 mg/mL) |
Heavy Metals | Compliant with global cosmetic safety standards; no detectable heavy metals |
Specifications may vary slightly by manufacturer; always request a Certificate of Analysis (COA) for each batch.
Mechanism of Action
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 exerts its anti-edema and anti-aging effects through a dual mechanism that addresses both the vascular and structural components of periorbital skin concerns.
1. ACE-1 Inhibition (Anti-Edema / Vascular Mechanism):
The primary mechanism of Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is the inhibition of angiotensin-converting enzyme 1 (ACE-1). ACE-1 is responsible for converting angiotensin I to angiotensin II, a potent vasoconstrictor that also increases vascular permeability and promotes fluid leakage from capillaries into surrounding tissues. By inhibiting ACE-1 activity, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 reduces the formation of angiotensin II, leading to:
Decreased capillary permeability, reducing the leakage of fluid into periorbital tissues
Improved local microcirculation and lymphatic drainage
Enhanced removal of accumulated fluid and metabolic waste products
Reduced periorbital edema (eye puffiness)
This mechanism is analogous to the action of ACE inhibitor pharmaceuticals but is specifically tailored for topical cosmetic application with a much milder and safer profile.
2. Anti-Glycation (Anti-Aging / Structural Mechanism):
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 also inhibits the non-enzymatic glycation of collagen and elastin fibers. Glycation occurs when reducing sugars react with proteins, forming advanced glycation end products (AGEs). AGEs cause collagen and elastin fibers to become rigid, cross-linked, and less functional, leading to loss of skin elasticity, sagging, and wrinkle formation. The peptide protects collagen by:
Competitively binding to glycation sites on collagen molecules
Preventing the formation of AGEs and protein cross-linking
Maintaining collagen fiber flexibility and structural integrity
Preserving skin elasticity and firmness
Key Benefits
Benefit Category | Description |
|---|---|
Eye Puffiness Reduction | Reduces under-eye edema by improving microcirculation and decreasing vascular permeability; clinical studies have shown significant reduction in eye bag volume |
Dark Circle Diminishing | Lightens hyperpigmentation and vascular dark circles by improving blood flow and reducing melanin deposition from glycation-related processes |
Anti-Glycation Protection | Prevents glycation-induced collagen cross-linking, maintaining skin elasticity and preventing sagging |
Skin Elasticity Improvement | Enhances skin firmness and resilience through collagen preservation and SOD activation |
Moisturizing & Smoothing | Acts as a humectant, attracting moisture to the stratum corneum and improving overall skin texture |
Anti-Aging | Reduces fine lines and wrinkles through multiple pathways (anti-glycation, collagen protection, hydration) |
Antioxidant | Neutralizes free radicals via SOD activation, protecting skin from oxidative damage |
Gentle & Non-irritating | Suitable for the delicate periorbital area; low irritation potential |
Clinical Study Reference: An 8-week double-blind trial demonstrated that an eye cream containing 2% Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 reduced eye bag volume in 89% of test subjects and improved skin elasticity by 23% (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020).
Applications & Usage Guidelines
Recommended Applications:
Category | Specific Products |
|---|---|
Eye Care | Eye creams, eye serums, eye gels, eye patches, eye masks |
Face Care | Anti-aging serums, firming creams, daily moisturizers, facial masks |
Post-Procedure | After-care products for laser, chemical peels, and microneedling |
Sensitive Skin | Calming and soothing products for reactive or irritated skin |
Sun Care | After-sun repair products |
Anti-Puffiness | Morning care products (e.g., roll-on serums, cooling gels) |
Recommended Concentration:
Form | Recommended Dosage in Final Formulation |
|---|---|
Powder (98%+ purity) | 50 – 1,000 ppm (0.005% – 0.1%) |
Powder (typical) | 100 – 500 ppm (0.01% – 0.05%) |
1% Solution (10,000 ppm) | 0.5% – 5% |
Maximum historical use (China IECIC) | Leave-on products: 3%; Eye area leave-on: 0.01% |
The typical safe and effective use concentration in finished cosmetic formulations for eye care products is between 100 ppm and 500 ppm (0.01% – 0.05%). For face creams and anti-aging formulations, concentrations up to 0.1% (1,000 ppm) are common. The maximum recommended use level according to cosmetic safety assessments is 0.1% (water-soluble).
Formulation Guidelines
pH Stability: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is stable in cosmetic formulations within the pH range of 4.0 – 7.0, with optimal stability between pH 5.0 and 6.0. Under strongly acidic conditions (pH < 4.0) or strongly alkaline conditions (pH > 8.0), the peptide bond is susceptible to hydrolysis, leading to degradation and loss of activity.
Thermal Stability: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is heat-sensitive and should be added to formulations after the temperature has dropped below 45°C (113°F) during the manufacturing process. Avoid prolonged exposure to temperatures exceeding 50°C.
Solubility: Highly soluble in water (>5 mg/mL). For aqueous formulations, the peptide dissolves readily in the water phase. It is also soluble in PBS (pH 7.2) at 10 mg/mL. The peptide may be pre-dissolved in a small amount of distilled water or propylene glycol before addition to the main batch to ensure uniform distribution.
Formulation Compatibility:
Compatible with most cosmetic bases including creams, lotions, serums, gels, and emulsion systems
Suitable for both oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions
Compatible with common humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, butylene glycol)
Compatible with other peptides (e.g., Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Copper Tripeptide-1) for synergistic effects
Compatible with antioxidants (vitamin E, ferulic acid), niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides, and plant extracts
Storage & Handling
Parameter | Condition |
|---|---|
Short-term storage | 2 – 8°C (refrigerator), sealed, protected from light, dry |
Long-term storage | -15°C to -20°C (freezer), tightly sealed, dry, and dark |
Shelf life (powder) | 24 months (2 years) under recommended conditions |
Solution stability | Stock solutions should be stored aliquoted in tightly sealed vials and used within 1 month; avoid repeated freeze-thaw cycles |
Transport temperature | Ambient temperature acceptable for short-term transport |
Protection | Protect from light, heat, moisture, and strong oxidizing agents |
Store the container tightly closed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. For extended shelf life beyond 24 months, maintain at -15°C to -20°C. Once the container is opened, reseal tightly and return to recommended storage conditions promptly. Solutions should be prepared fresh where possible; long-term storage of stock solutions is not recommended due to potential degradation
Packaging & Ordering Information
Parameter | Details |
|---|---|
Available package sizes | 1 g, 5 g, 10 g, 25 g, 50 g, 100 g, 500 g, 1 kg, 5 kg, 10 kg, 20 kg, 25 kg |
Available forms | Powder (95% – 99% purity) / Pre-dissolved solution (e.g., 1,000 ppm, 10,000 ppm in carrier) / Liposomal encapsulated form (<1% active) |
Standard packaging | Sealed foil bag or HDPE container with desiccant; solutions in amber glass or HDPE bottles |
Minimum order quantity (MOQ) | 1 g (research grade); custom quantities available for commercial orders |
Sample availability | Free samples available upon request (shipping charges may apply) |
Certifications | COA (Certificate of Analysis), MSDS/SDS, TDS (Technical Data Sheet) available; GMP-compliant manufacturing |
Custom synthesis | Available upon request with agreed specifications |
Product code examples | Cat. No.: B1671839, CP0013, A23428, 9054AF, GT-C075 |