Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Product Overview

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester (INCI name), also known as Calmosensine™, Sensicalmine™, or Skinasensyl®, is a lipophilic dipeptide derivative that functions as a neurocosmetic active ingredient. It is a synthetic peptide composed of two amino acids — acetylated tyrosine and arginine — esterified with cetyl alcohol, giving it a unique amphiphilic structure that enhances skin penetration and bioavailability. Its chemical structure consists of an acetyl group attached to a dipeptide formed from tyrosine and arginine, with a cetyl alcohol moiety contributing to its hydrophobic characteristics.

This ingredient is derived from Kyotorphin, an endogenous opioid analgesic dipeptide first discovered in 1979. By mimicking the body‘s natural neuropeptide signaling, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester acts as a “messenger of tranquility and muscle relaxation,” helping to calm skin, reduce sensitivity, and improve skin barrier function while simultaneously providing anti-aging benefits. It is listed in China’s Inventory of Used Cosmetic Ingredients (IECIC) and has been reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, confirming its safety for cosmetic use.

Chemical & Physical Specifications

Specifications may vary slightly by manufacturer; always request a Certificate of Analysis (COA) for each batch.

Mechanism of Action

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester exerts its dual soothing and anti-aging effects through a well-characterized neurocosmetic mechanism.

Neuro-Soothing Mechanism: The peptide functions by promoting the gene expression of pro-opiomelanocortin (POMC), which enhances the synthesis of β-endorphins — the body‘s natural “feel-good” neuropeptides — while reducing the release of pro-inflammatory calcitonin gene-related peptide (CGRP). This leads to decreased activation of the TRPV1 receptor (the capsaicin/heat receptor responsible for stinging and burning sensations) and subsequent attenuation of inflammatory responses. Clinical studies have demonstrated the peptide’s ability to inhibit capsaicin-induced skin irritation within 15 minutes in volunteers with sensitive skin.

The peptide also inhibits the release of other pro-inflammatory mediators including Substance P (SP) and Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), which are implicated in neurogenic inflammation and vascular dilation associated with sensitive skin. By reducing NFκB signaling pathway activation, it effectively controls persistent vasodilation and alleviates skin redness, tightness, and discomfort.

Skin Barrier Enhancement: Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester significantly upregulates the gene expression of key skin barrier function markers in primary human keratinocytes, including Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), Filaggrin (FLG), Caspase 14, and Cytokeratin 10. This strengthening of the epidermal barrier helps protect against external irritants, reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and improves overall skin resilience.

Anti-Aging Mechanism: As a lipophilic peptide derivative, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester activates fibroblast activity by mimicking endogenous signaling peptides, promoting the synthesis of Type I collagen and elastin to improve skin laxity and reduce wrinkles. It also reduces glyoxal-induced formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in primary human fibroblasts, protecting collagen-producing cells from the visible impact of glycation. In skincare, this ingredient is primarily used to stimulate elastin production and help prevent skin sagging by resisting gravity, thereby reducing the visible signs of aging including fine lines and wrinkles.

Applications & Usage Guidelines

Recommended Applications: Sensitive skin care products (serums, creams, lotions), anti-redness and rosacea care formulations, post-procedure recovery products (laser, chemical peels, microneedling), anti-aging and firming creams, eye contour treatments, facial masks, sun care and after-sun repair products, shaving and after-shave formulations, daily moisturizers for reactive skin.

Recommended Concentration:

The recommended concentration range in finished cosmetic formulations is typically 0.05% to 1.0%, depending on the specific application and regulatory requirements. For reference, finished product formulations have been reported containing 0.40% – 1.00% acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester in anti-aging creams.

Formulation Guidelines

pH Stability: Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is stable in cosmetic formulations within the pH range of 4.0 – 7.0, with optimal stability between pH 5.0 and 7.0. Under strongly acidic (pH < 4.0) or strongly alkaline (pH > 8.0) conditions, the compound is susceptible to hydrolysis of both the peptide bond and the ester linkage, leading to degradation and loss of activity.

Thermal Stability: As a peptide derivative, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is sensitive to high temperatures. It should be added to formulations after the temperature has dropped below 40°C (104°F) during the manufacturing process. Avoid prolonged exposure to temperatures exceeding 50°C.

Solubility: Slightly soluble in water. For aqueous formulations, the compound may require solubilizers such as glycols, polysorbates, or other co-solvents. The lipophilic nature of the cetyl ester chain allows for good compatibility with oil phases and emulsion systems.

Formulation Compatibility:

• Compatible with most cosmetic bases including creams, lotions, serums, gels, and emulsion systems

• Suitable for both oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions

• The amphiphilic structure provides good skin penetration and bioavailability

• Avoid formulations with extreme pH conditions (below pH 4.0 or above pH 8.0)

Addition Protocol:

1. For powder form: Pre-dissolve in a small amount of suitable solvent (propylene glycol, butylene glycol, or a co-solvent system) before adding to the main batch

2. Add to the formulation during the cooling phase after temperature has dropped below 40°C

3. For ready-to-use solutions, add directly during the final blending stage

4. Verify final formulation pH after addition using a calibrated pH meter

Compatible Ingredients:

• Most common cosmetic emollients, emulsifiers, and humectants

• Niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides, hyaluronic acid

• Other peptides (e.g., Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) — synergistic anti-aging and soothing effects

• Antioxidants (vitamin E, ferulic acid) — no compatibility issues reported

Incompatible Ingredients:

• Strong acids and strong bases (causes hydrolysis)

• High concentrations of oxidizing agents

• Avoid co-formulation with ingredients that may cause extreme pH shifts

Storage & Handling

Store the container tightly closed in a cool, dry place away from direct light and strong oxidizing agents. For extended shelf life beyond 24 months, maintain at -15°C to -20°C. Once the container is opened, reseal tightly and return to recommended storage conditions promptly. Solutions should be used promptly after opening; long-term storage of solutions is not recommended.

Packaging & Ordering Information

For pricing, samples, bulk orders, or customized synthesis, please contact our sales team. Certificates of Analysis (COA) and Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) are available for each batch upon request.

Safety & Regulatory Information

Important Safety Notes:

• For external cosmetic use only

• Higher concentrations (>1.0% active) may cause mild irritation in some individuals

• Always perform a patch test before widespread use, particularly for very sensitive skin

• Consult local regulations for specific compliance requirements in your target market

• For pharmaceutical applications, additional regulatory documentation may be required

Comparison with Other Peptides

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester complements other peptides such as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, making it an ideal ingredient for combination peptide systems targeting both sensitive skin relief and comprehensive anti-aging benefits.